1
A is for
Alexander Wang
While those in the fashion know might idolise Issey Miyake, Gareth Pugh et al. for their intrepid and artful experimentation, sometimes we just want to look at something we can actually wear. Thanks to his ability to craft a clever combination of the feminine and masculine (think baggy, ripped boyfriend shorts with slinky silk shirts); Wang has become the new darling of the fashion crowd - and you can count us amongst his legions of adoring fans, too.
2
B is for
Betsey Johnson
In case you were wondering, the mix ’n’ match aesthetic is alive and kicking, and it’s found its spiritual home amongst Betsey Johnson’s off-the-wall collections. Zebra print, Lurex, tutus, polka dots, bows and pink hair could all be found in her latest shows – proving that the print-clashing mistress isn’t going anywhere soon.
3
C is for
Carlos Miele
Less trashy and more understatedly sexy than Cavalli, Carlos Miele’s party-friendly designs serve the same purpose. They’re showy, full of colour, they’re unashamedly sexually charged and they scream of his Brazilian heritage – but these are the reasons we love them. Style favourite Camilla Belle has been championing his designs on the red carpet, which range from lime green gowns, to revealing bathing suits and bejewelled beach-side cocktail dresses.
4
D is for
Dolce & Gabbana
As the major proponents for the kind of overtly sexy, glitzy style one can see fitting right in on your French Riviera yacht, this duo of double trouble need little introduction. Nevertheless, the sheer impressiveness of their rapid success has gained Domenico Dolce and Steffano Gabbana a place in the eternal fashion annals. Loved by a younger (and more risqué) Madonna and brandished on the red carpet by every popstar from Kylie to Christina Aguilera, these are two boys who know exactly what women want and how to give it to them.
5
E is for
Erin Fetherston
She’ll never be accused of being the most daring of designers, but it’s exactly Erin Fetherston’s consistently whimsical and flippant fancies that have Hollywood starlets snapping at her heels for their latest party dresses. Pretty silks and ruffles filled up her spring collection in shades of dove grey and cream – expect to see them at an LA party near you soon.
6
F is for
Fendi
We’ll ignore their shameless insistence on using fur for a minute, because Fendi, as you’ve probably guessed already, make some of the most divine bags around. No longer limited to the glitzy Fendi baguettes they were once famous for, this season’s collection included some of the most lust-worthy clutch bags we might have ever seen. From a 2 foot long fringed number to the more traditional double F print; Fendi is where it’s at. Now back to those furs…
7
G is for
Giambattista Valli
Okay, put aside your Victoria Beckham-endorsed reservations, because Giambattista Valli is a label you really need to sit up and take note of. Famed for his statement-making, proportion-defying dresses, Valli comes up with the kind of clothes the surrealists would be proud of. Most certainly not for wallflowers.
8
J is for
Jil Sander
With its minimal influences, clean lines and modernist ethics, Jil Sander is a brand that sticks to its principles. However, Raf Simons is now at the helm and his task has been to bring the Jil Sander look out of the cliché it was hurtling toward and into the 21st century. This he has done, with the aid of a gorgeous neon palette and experiments in organza, metallics, silks and so on, which have made us fall in love with Jil all over again.
9
K is for
Karl Lagerfeld
The strange thing about Karl Lagerfeld (besides his bizarre German courtesan image) is that whilst his own collections are never particularly ground-breaking, his work at Fendi, and more notably for Chanel, has made him one of the most influential designers working today. From his runway show for Fendi on the Great Wall of China (yes, that really happened) to his catwalk merry-go-round of 10 foot tall jewellery for Chanel, this is a man with big ideas and the vision to put them into practice.
10
L is for
Luella
As a favourite of the Brit It-kids (Peaches, Lily, Daisy et al.), Luella Bartley’s stock is rising, and fast. Hitting the nail on the head when it comes to cool; this season Bartley referenced cult Scarlett Johansson film Ghost World for her collections, deftly mixing street-cool with sweet style.
11
M is for
Marc Jacobs
Like Chanel but on a smaller budget, uber-designer Marc Jacobs (with the help of accessories supremo Katie Hillier) has somehow tapped into the money making potential of all the little girly accessories – hairbands, keyrings and so on – which have twenty-something women lusting like school girls. But don’t let that detract from Marc’s real work: this man is a genius. By referencing eras past, Jacobs pulls together season after season of wearable and ultra-desirable styles both for his own line and through his work at Louis Vuitton. And where Jacobs leads, younger designers and the high street follow, so in truth we’ve all got Marc to thank for our bulging wardrobes.
12
N is for
Nicolas Ghesquiere
When a designer comes to a house with as rich a heritage as Balenciaga, he’s got his work cut out for him. Nicolas Ghesquiere pulled it out of the bag when he was appointed as the creative director, producing seasons of looks based on intelligent brand retrospective, combined with a visionary futurism that’s seen gladiator boots transformed into pieces of Lego-like artwork and the traditional Balenciaga balloon shapes covered with enormous, modern florals. For a celebrity take, check out Jennifer Connelly – she religiously wears Balenciaga on the red carpet.
13
O is for
Oscar de la Renta
The beauty of Oscar is that this is a man who knows how women want to dress, in sophisticated, well-tailored, but feminine cuts. He doesn’t go in for frivolous frills or girly fancies (he got his training under the pioneering Cristobal Balenciaga, and brought us the bubble dress after all) – his are classic shapes updated every season for a modern audience.
14
P is for
Phillip Lim
There are some brands (and designers) that manage to retain a constant aura of cool, and in our eyes, the relatively new-school 3.1 Phillip Lim range is one of them. Churning out oh-so-now combinations of boyfriend blazers, long-line cardigans and beautifully detailed evening wear, our advice is get it while it’s hot!
15
S is for
Stella McCartney
Questionable nepotism aside, Stella McCartney has made a name for herself as a formidable force in fashion. With Madonna and Gwyneth Paltrow as her biggest fans, Sir Paul’s offspring has managed to revitalise the house of Chloe and launch her own uber-successful namesake brand all by the age of 36. With a vision of modern femininity, Stella fuses parachute silk jumpsuits with pretty printed swimsuits and explosions of florals to create a thumbs-up winning season.
16
T is for
Thakoon
With the kind of oh-so-cool vintage vibe that Marc Jacobs has such a thorough hold on running as a steady undercurrent through his collections, Thakoon has shot to the top of fashion cred in three measly years. The name Thakoon is now synonymous with wearable and diversely influenced style – think 80s floral splattered dresses, with boating club sweaters and tailored blazers and you’re about there.
17
V is for
Valentino
The entire fashion world shed a little tear this January when Valentino Garavani waved his final catwalk goodbye – and hung up his designer’s hat for good with a closing Couture collection. And whilst the house of Valentino pushes on, the man himself will always be remembered for being the king of class. Beautiful satin, intricate lace and embroidered floral prints made up the voluminously shaped coats and dresses of his final showdown, but of course, it was his trademark that closed the show – in the form of a huge red dress projected onto the wall.
18
W is for
Westwood, the inimitable Vivienne
She hardly needs any introduction, but a designer guide without Vivienne Westwood is a designer guide not worth writing (or reading). From her early days designing bondage trousers for the SEX shop on the King’s Road to her current status as fashion legend and vehemently active political campaigner, Viv really has carved out for herself a true place in style history.
19
X, Y, Z is for
Zac Posen
While it might have been the Sex and the City bridesmaid dresses that shunted Zac Posen’s designs swiftly into the public eye, he’s actually been an established face in fashion for nearly six years. Famed mostly for his evening-wear (forward-thinking Rachel Bilson is a big fan), that’s not where his talents end. Taking inspiration from such diverse influences as the Shakers and Minnie Mouse, Posen’s clothes aren’t necessarily practical for ‘real folk’ like us, but then none of the best clothes are, wouldn’t you say?